Segovia

By Ines Keane

Start with a count that no two sources agree on. How many arches does Segovia’s aqueduct have? One source says 167. Another says more than 170. A third says two tiers on 221 pillars, and UNESCO’s summary says 128. We have not worked out why the counts differ, and that is worth knowing before you stand under it.

Where it sits

Wikipedia puts Segovia in Castile and LeĂłn at 1,005 metres above sea level, with 52,375 people in January 2025. A World Heritage travel page says it is about an hour and 15 minutes by road from Madrid. UNESCO inscribed the Old Town of Segovia and its Aqueduct in 1985 under criteria (i), (iii) and (iv), covering 134.28 hectares.

The aqueduct

The figures differ and we have not worked out why. UNESCO says the aqueduct is 813 metres long, with two superimposed arcades carried on 128 pillars, and 28.5 metres high at its lowest valley point. The World Heritage travel page also gives 813 metres, but with 221 large pillars. Wikipedia’s article on the town gives 818 metres, more than 170 arches, a highest arch of 29 metres, and about 25,000 granite blocks held together without mortar. Wikipedia’s separate article on the aqueduct gives 167 arches in total and a maximum height of 28.5 metres. We show each with its source, and do not pick a winner.

On the water, the aqueduct article says it came from the RĂ­o FrĂ­o, 17 kilometres away. The travel page agrees on 17 kilometres, and says the aqueduct worked for nearly 2,000 years, until 1973.

Dates differ too. The travel page says about 50 AD. The aqueduct article says the first century AD, then reports that the scholar Géza Alföldy determined that Domitian ordered construction between 81 and 96 AD, with 98 AD the probable completion. It adds that archaeological evidence revised in 2016 suggests a date after 112 AD, under Trajan or early in the reign of Hadrian. The aqueduct article also says the Catholic Monarchs had 36 damaged arches rebuilt in the fifteenth century, and that the monument went onto the World Monuments Watch in 2006 because of structural deterioration. We have not checked what work has been done since.

Alcázar

The travel page says the Alcázar is a medieval fortress and royal palace of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, with moat, drawbridge, towers and keep, and a richly furnished interior. Wikipedia says the Alcázar is first documented in 1122, stands between two rivers, was destroyed by a fire in 1862, and was rebuilt. UNESCO’s summary says it was begun around the eleventh century. The dates differ and we show them all. Wikipedia adds that it now holds military archives and an artillery museum.

The cathedral

UNESCO calls the cathedral a sixteenth-century Gothic building, the last to be built in Spain in this style. Wikipedia calls it the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain and says it was consecrated in 1768. It gives the size as 105 metres long and 50 metres wide, with 18 chapels and three entrances. The travel page says one ticket covers the cathedral and the neighbouring Episcopal Palace, which holds religious art. We have not checked the ticket arrangement now.

Mint, mills and mixed cultures

UNESCO’s summary calls the Segovia Mint the oldest industrial building still standing in Spain. Wikipedia says the Mint is on the European Route of Industrial Heritage. The travel page says a museum on the aqueduct occupies the building that used to hold the Mint.

UNESCO describes the old city as a place where Moorish, Christian and Jewish cultures lived side by side. The travel page repeats the point, saying that the three communities coexisted for a long period and worked together during a sixteenth-century manufacturing boom. Wikipedia says that Segovia joined the Comuneros revolt and that its population reached 27,000 by 1594, and records that Isabella I was proclaimed Queen of Castile in the city on 13 December 1474.

What it means for a visit

Our reading is that Segovia is a place to see how layers sit on top of each other: a Roman water line, a medieval fortress, a Gothic cathedral and a mint, all within a hilltop old town of 134 hectares. Look for the joins. Check opening times, tickets and any restoration works before you go, because we have not.

Where sources differ, we show each figure with its source: the aqueduct’s arch and pillar counts, its length and its date, and the Alcázar’s age. They do not need resolving for a visit.

Roam first. Shop later.

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