The town near Valencia that made plates shine like metal

By Rafe Calder

Manises is a town beside the Valencia airport, and its name is attached to a particular finish: a metallic, reflective surface on pottery. The finish has a long record. The pages that describe it do not agree about when its great years ended.

What the sources call it

Valencia’s provincial tourism board describes a “metallic reflective finish”, which it calls the village’s signature feature from the 14th century. The regional tourism site points to a hands-on experience called “Discover the Loza Dorada Medieval”, golden earthenware. Wikipedia uses “lusterware”. We use the English term where a source does and give the others as they appear. None of the tourism pages explains how the finish is made, and neither does the travel blog we read, which says the post names lusterware but does not explain the technique.

Early history

The provincial tourism board says the origins of the village are Muslim, and that the Muslims established a major ceramic centre. It dates the conquest-era milestone to 1237, when James I donated the manor to the Artal de Luna family, and says the manor passed definitively to the Boïl family on 3 December 1304. A travel blog agrees that the town was inhabited in Roman times and became a ceramics centre after the Arabs arrived.

Wikipedia gives 1237 as the earliest recorded mention of Manises, in the Book of the Cast. It says the Boïl family, who had acquired the lordship, brought lusterware know-how from Andalusia, especially Málaga, in the early 14th century. Our reading: the tourism board’s 1304 and Wikipedia’s early 14th century are compatible, but neither page links the Boïl change of lordship to the technique’s arrival in more detail.

The great centuries

The tourism board says that from the 14th to the 16th centuries metallic reflective tiles and blue-decorated pieces made Manises famous across Europe. Wikipedia says golden and blue lusterware sold widely until the late 16th century, often known as “work of Valencia” or “Mallorca” after the seafarers who traded it. It lists the places the pottery reached: the Aragonese crown, Naples, Vatican commissions, France, Italy, Sicily, Venice, Turkey, Cyprus, Flanders and the Baltic. It adds that heraldic tiles sold well in the early 16th century and that pottery was packed for export in large jars called cossis.

When did it end?

SourceWhen the great period ended
WikipediaThe late 16th century; Valencian tiles rise in the 17th.
Provincial tourism boardProduction declined between the 17th and 19th centuries, then revived with polychrome tiles.
Travel blog (2015)The 18th century, with decline in the 19th.

We do not choose. Our reading: each source may be describing a different product, lustre for the first and tiles for the second, but none says so.

The revival

Modernism, it says, brought ornamental ceramic elements and polychrome façade tiles in the early 20th century. The tourism board points to several façades in the town: the old railway station, a former factory from the early 20th century, and a building with cobalt-blue tiles. It also says the dome of the church of Saint John the Baptist is covered in tiles with the reflective finish. Today, Wikipedia says, small businesses predominate.

The museum

The provincial tourism board says the Manises Ceramics Museum occupies a former 18th-century mansion and holds over 4,500 pieces from the 14th to the 20th centuries, with a ceramics library and a documentary archive. Wikipedia says the municipal museum opened in 1969 and was renovated and enlarged in 1989, and lists 15th- and 18th-century tile sets, golden-reflex pieces and a recreated 18th-century Valencian living room-kitchen. The regional tourism site says the museum explains the UNESCO recognition and the history of the tradition, but gives no date for the recognition. The travel blog adds that the museum covers production techniques over the centuries, including socarrat and polychrome, and has a small gallery of modern works on the top floor.

What a visitor can do

The regional tourism site lists the ceramics museum, the Parque Histórico de la Cerámica Valenciana and workshops open to visitors. It says a Fiesta y Cabalgata de la Cerámica in July honours ceramic artisans, and none of the pages lists a winter programme. The travel blog describes the shopping as a spread from stores selling generic styles in bulk to specialists making hand-designed patterns, and says some workshops need a knock on the door. It does not say how to tell a handmade piece from a bulk one.

Dates in order

  • 1237: first recorded mention and the manor donation, according to Wikipedia and the tourism board.
  • 3 December 1304: the manor passes to the Boïl family, according to the tourism board.
  • 14th to 16th centuries: fame across Europe.
  • Late 16th century: the end of dominance, according to Wikipedia.
  • 1914 or 1917: the School of Ceramics.
  • 1969 and 1989: the museum opens and is enlarged, according to Wikipedia.

What kind of sources these are

A provincial tourism board and a regional tourism site, both promotional; Wikipedia; and a single travel blog from 2015 written as a day trip. We could not load a museum catalogue or a scholarly article, so no technical account of the firing is given.

Questions a buyer would ask

How can I tell a hand-painted piece? The pages we read do not say. Is there a marking system? None is mentioned. Is lustre a protected name? None of the pages mentions one.

What we left out

Prices, named workshops and makers, the shop and workshop addresses, a Roman aqueduct the tourism board attributes to different builders, and the town’s religious buildings beyond the tiled dome.

Quick answers

What is Manises known for? According to the provincial tourism board, metallic reflective tiles and blue-decorated pieces made it famous across Europe from the 14th to the 16th centuries.

Is there a museum? Yes. The provincial tourism board says the Manises Ceramics Museum holds over 4,500 pieces from the 14th to 20th centuries.

Where did the lustre technique come from? Wikipedia says the Boïl family brought it from Andalusia, especially Málaga, in the early 14th century.

Related on this site: lugo-roman-wall-walk-the-circuit, lladro-porcelain-marks-and-how-to-read-them, ensaimada-de-mallorca-igp-what-the-name-covers

Roam first. Shop later.

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